so i want to mod my xbox 360.
i have the materials for the mod.
i saw this video on how to mod you xbox 360 with leds
i watched both videos. now i want to know where to solder the negative and positive wires to
please help
TUTORIAL
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQ__MeXLWpw&feature=channel

this is my xbox now

I don't understand why you would do anything like this ridiculous video. If you want to do the ROL, you just solder new LEDs where the the old ones were. If you want to run LEDs around and in the 360 you just buy an LED stick from places like extreme-mods and put what color LEDs you want in the sticks and cut and form them where you want. They plug into the fan plug and require no soldering to the 360.

I don't understand. Some advice..

99% of anything you see on youtube having anything to do with modding/repairing your 360 is garbage, and should never be done, ever by anyone with common sense.

sure but i don't have $70 dollars on something that i don't like. but if is safer than ill buy one :|

Shouldn't cost you $70...lol I believe the cut-able LED boards are around $10. and you can buy lots of LEDs on Ebay pretty cheap. Since it is pretty much just plugging them in, so it is safer all around than soldering to the board(s).

Az doesn't have the slightest clue on repairing 360s. Heatgunning has a wide heat range, you could be giving it too much heat. Also a heat gun causes major flexing and is the WORST reflow out there. As to the fact that I knew nothing about repairing 360s and randomly appeared, no I have been repairing 360s for a while and decided to online with it. Also, Az I told you I didn't learn about repairs just through xbox-scene, I learned from personal experience and months of research. Also my rework station is expensive yes, but well worth it. You need to spend money to make money and with my set-up I'm getting better results so it's worth it. About the capacitors, if they are blown sometimes you can't even turn on your 360, or it displays the 3 red rings. So what the heck do you mean without them your 360 can run perfectly fine!? With my prices I only make $10-$15, I only charge $35 now, and still that doesn't include shipping. I do this on the side and so I'm not looking to make much. So get your facts straight Az

Umm, on your superior custom station... what's that thing hanging on the drill press? Is that a heatgun? You use a heatgun? I think I posted a link to take care of your experience, you know the one from November where you were gonna look on youtube to try and find a video cause you had no idea what E73 was...yeah...

Yet again, my challenge still stands while you bash me... You have yet to name a persons 360 that you have actually fixed. You just change the subject, contradict yourself, and try to make excuses. Grow up kid.

Ok, I didn't want to, but I can't stand the blaring misinformation in this topic. SO I will *attempt* to correct it.

1)Best tools and methods according to??? Just because you pay a lot for equipment, doesn't mean you know how to use it.

2)The older cages are not uneven in any way. That's just ridiculous. break one out and read me off the difference.

3) The penny trick's main issue is not flexing the board. The problem with it is that it is always uneven and done incorrectly. The actual issue it causes is that the uneven pressure tends to pull the solder balls loose under the GPU when the 360 gets warm and they soften. Screw warping the board. Regardless, don't ever do the penny trick, you would be truly ruining your 360.

4) Overheating the 360 is bad. But what is this claim of it damaging the "capacitors" (spelling, not mine. Yours)? Overheating your 360 just forces heat on the chips themselves and even if the console has all ventilation blocked, the only way you could hold heat on the capacitors is to have the 360 completely upside down. This has nothing to do with the actual damage you cause. All damage from this method is completely done to the chips themselves. You are not correcting the issue, only softening up some solder so that you get a connection again. You will permanently screw your console this way and it is never even a semi permanent solution (couple days to a few weeks max) As far as it is concerned "expert" go ahead and reach in and grab one of those nice caps surrounding the CPU and rip it out. Turn the 360 on... see any problems? No, you don't, they aren't necessary for your 360 to run completely normal and forever.

5) Why are you "not willing to make much"? Then why aren't you doing it for free?

6) Hmmm, rather bold statement that you are the be all end all in repair. ie "If I can't fix it (even though less than 2 months ago I had no idea in the world what I was doing and was begging for youtube video tut links ---> see this topic http://www.ibotmodz....__1#entry109362 ) then no one can". Without any experience, you have the most experience and know it all. Awesome.

7) I have to ask, honestly.. maybe I'm dumb as hell, I dunno. What the hell does spray painting the outside of the case have ANYTHING to do with controlling heat from the chips to the heatsinks to the fan shroud and out the back of the 360??? This has to be the dumbest thing ever.


Here you go, end all, know all expert... Why not give the people some actual info that's truthful and useful...

To help a lot with overheating make sure to lay your 360 horizontally instead of standing it up. Sony and Nintendo did it and so MS thought they needed to also. Sadly they didn't bother to design it that way. When your 360 is laying down, heat rises up and the fans pull it out the back. When it is standing vertically heat rises, and the fans are on bottom... GASP! So the heat builds up more in the top of your console and well, there isn't much ventilation there. So lay your consoles down.

There kid, you can have that one for free. You know my AIM when you need help getting those 360s fixed.

First of all its a smd rework station on the drill press. Yeah at the beggining of november i had no idea what e73 was, at that time i only worked with rrod and e74 360s which are the most common errors. Also no im right, im talking about the caps not the resistors. Try blowing one and find out XD

Also it really doesn't matter what i say anymore becasue it doesn't matter what's true, just what most people believe.

Actually I have removed caps from a 360 and had it run fine... rework station, hmm, does it produce heat directed at something... like a heatgun. Your problem is you come in, spout bad information you read somewhere and have nothing at all to back it up. I have a track record and lots of successful repairs. You have nothing you can show. You need to understand that reading stuff and paying to much for a "professional" rework station doesn't make you an expert. Doing this successfully for 3+ years on hundreds of consoles, is what makes me think I know just a little bit.

its not an opinion its fact

My answer to every comment he has made regarding his vast experience... http://www.ibotmodz....332#entry109332

BTW, "kid", your 360 will run fine missing a cap or 2... I believe you are thinking or the resistors, not the capacitors. The capacitors are just filters... But then again, as you so kindly said... what do I know.

Also would like to add, and this is not dissing you at all, but rather your "expert" equipment.

I looked at that setup on your web page.

Some suggestions....

Take a bare board, lie it on your hotplate, use white-out to mark the four outer holes on the plate (you can do all 8 if you want) then drill those 4 holes into the hotplate, put screws in (like the ones you use for your RROD clamps, but longer (I use 2")) Secure the screws to the plate with a nice nut on top of each, then measure and place another nut 1" above the plate (making sure it's level) on each screw. Sitting the board over this will help with making sure it receives consistent bottom heat, also works much better at unwarping/unstressing the board than your "professional" setup as the gap in between your hotplate and the board allows for too much variance in air circulation and temp changes. It also requires you use a higher temp to affect the board. Which is unnecessary.

Also, take the heatgun off of that drill press and throw the press somewhere else. Used over a hot plate as I suggested, there is no benefit to the press and you lose a lot of manuverability and control. Plain ole $20 heatgun in your hands will give better results. Also from the pictures, you are sitting way too close to the board.

So... your expert equipment was $120+

My setup, which I can assure because of real life experience and knowledge will provide better results, was $40. ($20 for a heat gun, $15 for the hotplate, $5 on screws, bolts, misc.)

Just some suggestions to make things work better, and not waste so much money (which you already did) and still get the lackluster results that you inevitably will have.

A rework station is sort of similar to a heat gun , yet you control the temp and air flow.

yes, it is a heatgun. My heatgun allows adjustment of temps just fine, and nozzles direct how wide or narrow of an area you wish to heat.

well yeah im legit lol XD and yeah thx

I would advise anyone be careful dealing with this. Personally I do not know the guy, but after a brief conversation on AIM, where he attempted to flaunt his repair skills because he paid WAY too much for a reflow station, and read some forums on 360 repair.Even though I have only been doing this for years, he attempted to convince me of his awesomeness. Lots of stuff spouting from his mouth was untrue or irrelevant and came straight from bad forum topics on other sites. I asked for any references of customers he had done repairs for and he could not provide any, just consistently tried to throw out irrelevant knowledge (ie. "Do you replace the capacitors?") (ie... from me.... Are you aware that you would never need to? Are you aware that the 360 would run perfectly fine without them ????")lol. And on and on.Had a lot of talk, but most was recycled from other people on other forums. And I'm wary of people who's "experiAnce" (sorry, I had to) is strictly reading forums on xbox-scene and getting ripped off on a reflow station. And that's the only references he could provide. No real life experience. None was mentioned.

Then I jump on here to check him out. In November, he knew nothing about 360 repair. So in 2 months he has bought an expensive reflow station and found some forums. and is now a "professional".

Not dissing him (lol) as I refuse to sink to his sophomoric level, but please be wary. People like this are a dime a dozen.

Find actual people that have had repair work done by him, and how their consoles are working. Ask questions and shop around. Demand unrelated references.

I can honestly say the biggest problem with this topic is his price. The hybrid clamps themselves (besides having no value to a true repair person... BUT they were talked up by a few misinformed forums), are $10-$15 each, so if he is truly doing what he says, his material costs would exceed his charge. Either you are gonna pay Shipping and still have a broken 360, or something isn't right. Think about it.

Just some advice.

Yep, you corrupted it.

Thats your option, since you didn't keep a backup. Delete it, then recover from Xbox Live.

That is most likely the issue, there is a slim, and I mean very slim, chance you caught a lil surge or something and ruined the HDD, it's unlikely. Before doing anything drastic, follow the instructions given by others. Even though I've never had the screen do anything stupid when corrupting a profile, it could happen. And if you just blew it up... you also should have seen a not so nice E68 message on screen, which you didn't say you had.

But the thing is I can't connect it to my hard drive either.

Can't connect what to the HDD? The 360? Physically or what? You aren't very detailed...

Do you guys even know how much level editors cost to make or even purchase from another company? They are expensive as hell.

Game developers don't care if you will wait another 1+ years so they can make it more customizable. Maybe if you offered to double their salary, they might spend their lives making the game the way you want it to be.

Or maybe they understand that if they gave you that ability, why would you buy Map Packs or any other "expansion" DLC? Why would you buy Halo 6 if you could have already made everything in Halo 2?

Think of the lost revenue....... Publishers aren't stupid.

I think you are missing it. They will still break (probably more actually) but you won't get "RRoD" because they didn't put red LED's in the ring. It's the best they can do to try to remove themselves from the RRoD plight. It's still going to happen, but it won't be the dreaded RRoD. It will be the dreaded "Red Blinking power button light of death or RBPBLoD"

I wonder how the secondary error codes will work, probably still the reconnect button and the dvd drive button but how will we tell the seccondary error code by the rate of the blinking? will it show green rings instead of read? Also think they will still mean the same things? like e74= gpu and/or hana chip problem

I'm curious as to this one also. As the only on screen message it will show is "overheating". I guess the only way we are gonna find out is when we finally get our hands on a broken one.

Sites have come and gone, but this site has stayed. October 2006 the site was born and continued to grow through hackings, and multiple server moves. Its unfortunate that all things must end. Sites have spawned based off a little tool they make. Members want a piece of the moderating (which isn't that great), so they leave to join another site which will tumble in due time. The rise of other sites have left iBotModz in the dark. One could blame the lack of development coming from the iBotModz guys, but I don't think thats it. There are an excess of other sites out there, some of which make their mark from attracting little kids who want to boost. They go against the entire form of " modding" and switch to "hacking". Modding to boost was never, and should never be used online. People mod games for fun, not to cheat. A few sites forgot that and instantly attracted the entire crew of little kids wanted a big number next to their name.

Someone could say, "wtf peach, modding online is the bomb with the 360". I see no value in boosting my gamerscore. Its a bloody number that has no relation to me outside the gaming world. My boss is not going to care that I have 200k gamerscore. Avatar modding is harmless, so I enjoy it. Halo 3 forge mods are harmless, since you cannot go in matchmaking with them.

Point being, Halo Reach marks the start or end to iBotModz. If Halo: Reach modding explodes, we will go with it and continue to live day by day. If Halo: Reach modding fails miserably and the site ceases to exist, I will cancel the server payments and redirect the domain to a site of my pick. I guess we have to hop the bandwagon of boosting/cheating online, or fail miserably for the time being.

Also, If anyone remembered HaloMods it finally was shutdown after the poor management destroyed the best Halo 2 site that existed.

Last point, I have a jtagged xbox now. So I will try and release some tutorials and applications to benefit others as time permits.

I'm Azraelrs, and I 100% agree with this post. It has always pissed me off when kids think they need to cheat online. I feel (very strongly btw) that you have the right to mod your games offline, hack your GS, anything else that doesn't affect others peoples enjoyment. You have NO right to mod games online. Nothing gives you the right to screw with others enjoyment of a game. Some people aren't like me (and others), they can't just DL and burn a game. Some people work hard (and some kids save their allowances) for a long time, just to get that one game they really want. Or maybe they are even less privileged and only get 1 game a year for Christmas... What right do you have to destroy that? You have none.

Use MW2 as an example... How many people waited, and saved, and sooo looked forward to it... Then it was completely ruined for them by people cheating online. It's ridiculous.

Don't screw with others enjoyment... They deserve the right to enjoy the game they bought!

Just a suggestion (as if I know anything about running a website), if you decide to merge do it with a more generalized site. Something that covers a lot more on gaming and modding as a whole and is not so centralized around one particular game.

As I tried to say many moons ago Halo just isn't it anymore. People are all over the place.

But don't just merge into any site. Take time and find one that is mutually beneficial to the members there, and to all of your loyal members here. Don't settle for anything being taken away, make sure any decision is for the good and for the growth.

I believe this would have to be a test board. Being a person that stares at them I see several flaws and it raises questions also But in no way can this be a complete MoBo, or even a working test "leak"

Let me first address the problems I see.

There are several unaccounted for power plugs on the board, and 2 SATA ports. Are they changing the HDD and other config to make everything you own now incompatible? Not smart. (23 open power plugs in the pic, compared to 2 on any current board, one for DVD drive and one for the fan)

Below the fan in the pic I see 2 inputs. The smaller one is for the RF/ROL board and the larger is a MU slot. Where are the USB inputs? Also, no HDD plug in...lol

On the top (in the pic) I see the network and AV/HDMI inputs. What are the other 2?

I see an IR sensor, but there is no Eject or Sync buttons.

And probably other things I didn't notice.

And here are what I see as issues. If everything works and they step up the manufacturing quality (doubtful) it should be a good board and a better system. But as a repair person, this is going to screw things to hell.

A joined CPU and GPU could cause serious diagnostic and repair issues....

Moving the Southbridge to the center of the board (it is already overly sensitive to warping) would possibly cause worse, worse, worse problems.

And to you HAWKzero, I apologize for the flaming in this thread. It sucks when you come to get help and answers and it just goes nowhere. I do have a problem with this kid spouting off bad info he read somewhere and assumes it is correct. It is very misleading and may cause people to do unnecessary work on their consoles. Basically, here's what to look for...

The first indicator that it may be the power supply was your power brick going back to red. If that happens, it means it's an error with the brick or the power supply on the 360 itself. Since you tried out multiple power bricks, that kinda eliminates the possibility of it being the brick. Then when you got the secondary code and it was 0001, you almost completely confirmed that was the issue. I'm going to go with the fact that when you positioned it in a certain spot you got power enough to get the secondary code, that you have a loose connection.

To begin with, look in the outlet on the console and make sure none of the contacts are missing/bent/touching. If that goes well and everything looks good, start looking around the PSU for loose or bridging solder and any resistors that may have shorted. 99% of the time you will find your problem right there with the solder. If it is, you can attempt a reflow on that area, but please be cautious around the resistors and such there. There is a rare chance that it could be a short in your DVD drive power wire or the fan wires. Check all that out. And test different wires if you have them available.

Hope that helps you.

its the xclamp thats making it like that, its probably too tight, try loosening them becasue it could be shorting something. Tell me if loosening them works, if not then its somehting else.

You sir, are truly an idiot. To start with, if you aren't getting power, and your brick checks out. first place you should look is the power supply connections on the 360. You don't even need to know the secondary code.... BUT WAIT!! He did get the secondary code! 0001... hmm, that would be a faulty PSU... Imagine that. So, maybe he should look at the connections around the power supply.

You have no common sense when it comes to 360s. If you had even the slightest bit of any kind of knowledge on 360 repair you would know that overtightening the heatsinks would cause error 0020... Jesus Christ kid. Stop giving bad/wrong advice!

okay, my xbox killed itself a couple months ago. i had no warranty left. i ended up fixing it maybe a moth ago/ i removed the x clamps re-did the paste yata yata, and it worked fine. until yesterday that is.

i got RRoD again and i am wondering if i can fix it. is it possible to just crack it open again and tighten the screws or re apply the paste? or something? would the penny trick fix it? or am i ******?

I suggest, being me, that you first get the secondary error and then post it here and I can give you a better answer on how to fix it the right way...

Hopefully you have kept the X Clamps so you can fix it properly and get rid of the screws and washers.

Re-apply the x-clamp? So we can have the same problem again?

Next time i work on it im gonna check the code, like i always do.

Sure the x-clamp fix may keep warping it, but if it works why not? lol

Im gonna check the tightness of bolts, take or add another washer, maybe re-apply the heat sink glue (good stuff this time) and then it should be good.


edit- Don't tell me the x-clamp fix "doesnt work", because it does. I've fixed a few now, this one being the only trouble.

Well, I'm gonna tell you... the Xclamp fix doesn't work...no matter what you do with it, it's never a permanent solution. Ever. And each time it reoccurs and you do it over you are just screwing that board over worse and worse. No error in that whole 360 is cause by the X clamps. replacing them is always a cheap temp fix. It helps when there is a short or a bad solder connection, but never fixes the problem, only covers it up for a little while. The factory clamps do a much better job than the screws and washers.

You haven't "fixed" any of them if you simply did screws and a washers... You just duct taped it for a bit. Just being honest, I do tons of consoles, and sit around and laugh with some repair buddies every time I get one that the previous owner did that to. The general comment is "jesus Christ, I got another one of these screw and washer deals... geeez are they never gonna learn"

I don't mean any offense, just telling the truth.

And yes, you can do the screws and washers the proper way and have them work as well as the OG X clamps. Through the cage...

Screws>cage>metal washer>nylon washer> Board> nylon washer> metal washer> heatsink.

This of course is only after you've actually repaired the 360.

Depending on the error code...

Did you do a low temp oven bake for 6-8 hours to dry the board and unstress it?

Did you run flux under all chips to clean and renew the solder?

Did you reflow the chips that were causing the errors?

ONLY THEN are you ready to put anything back together. If the board sitting on it's own, with power, AV, and an RF board (with a lil Arctic Silver on the chips to prevent immediate overheating) doesn't boot up to the dash just sitting there, you haven't fixed anything. What you are doing is called putting a Band Aid on it.

BTW, also, if you do use the screws and washers.. Common mistake that ruins lots of 360s... You only ever need to tighten the screws with your fingers. Finger tight is as far as you should ever go, and is as much as is ever needed.

Just fix it the right way the first time, and it won't happen again. I've done this for a few years now man, just know that if you fix them right, they last a lonnnng time.

(Again, I'm not bashing you. Just trying to give some accurate info)


AND NO!!!! DO NOT EVER DO THE PENNY TRICK OR TOWEL TRICK!!!!

Yeah, fix the spelling and it will look quite nice.

PS.. (you know I would have let you have xbox360smartrepairs.com, the joke was over)

what?

Not you...lol halo3 (likes to tell me I'm dumb)

Very nice, make the images click-able rather then having to click on the top
Perhaps you would like to purchase an advertisement on Grunt Mods.
How much do you give for a broken xbox? The button doesn't work

yeah, I noticed that button didn't work. Just clean it up a lil... (Spell check) and it'll look nice. And you can continue telling me that you are wrong.lol

No, you cannot JTAG anything past 7371. That's the cutoff. Also, you can't have a blade dash and 8498. As Peaches said 7357 was the NXE update. People keep trying to speculate that post 7371 will become JTAGable, but it won't. The hole has been closed.