Why is it so bad to copy and paste? Just wanted to make sure you knew that info And if it is hardware related it would probably be the gpu. Now if your so sure its the southbridge why ask for help here?
And btw get a life

And again you post your useless crap on my topic. I know all that. Do you not think if I'm actually asking for other peoples Ideas when it comes to repair that I haven't ran through every repair, checked every resistor, ran over every possible hardware fault in my head and it practice?

I didn't ask so that I could get common knowledge, I know how this is done. I'm looking for alternative trains of thought. The sensical route isn't fixing it, and I'm not entirely convinced there isn't a software issue since I changed the error code completely before even opening the case. And I asked because I have been through the southbridge and everything else known to man.

PS, you don't insulate the board on a low temp oven bake. You can cover the plastic inputs if you want, but I've never seen any detrimental effects as long as you have some common sense. Keep it below 180F (I BELIEVE the safe limit/heat tolerance on the plastic caps right around 200~205F and they would be the first things damaged because of how thin they are..

PSS- The guy who you think is a god, and who you steal all your copy paste stuff from (Willhelm) offered this answer "man, I don't really know. I've only heard of that exact error 3 times, and I've never seen one in person. Good luck."

Now if you would like to add anything that is not common knowledge and may contribute to my issue, feel free. But if all you are going to do is come here and spout your copy paste job, don't bother.

see lol he doesn't know everything about repairs XD
This error is caused by a bridged/shorting solder joint under the GPU, (H)ANA-chip or in between.It can also be power related though, for example if you are drawing power from one of the regulators that power the GPU and HANA-chip.Can also be a component that is missing or damaged so look for missing parts near the GPU and the HANA chip. In extremely rare cases it might also be related to the lines that lead from HANA to the CPU.
The chances are however higher that it is the GPU than the HANA chip so you should always first concentrate on the GPU.

Since your using a heat gun which is uneven air, try it on the side towars the HANA chip. Also did you use any insulation when you low baked it?
Btw i can always professionally reflow this for you

thanks for proving your idiocy sir. BTW, that is an excellent copy paste job from xbox-experts. Also, the error truly has absolutely nothing to do with anything you mentioned at... let me try....

go here and look at the description http://xbox-experts....rcode/E10/0022/ what does it say? Oh, it's your whole post! Geez kid. BTW, you "professional", you should know that if it's anything hardware related (which is the issue since I'm not entirely sure it's not a software issue with the TSOP, especially since the error changed without the case ever being opened) it would be related to the Southbridge above all else. You have to be the dumbest shit I have ever seen. Did that copy past job make you feel smart, cause it surely didn't help prove it. Learn what the hell you are talking about before you come posting more of that dumb shit you read on the internet ever again. Stay off of my posts with your shit spilling wrong copy paste jobs!

I'm not new to 360 repair. Just to get that out of the way. Anyways, 1 of the 5 consoles I got in today had E71. It is an old console (12-24-05) man. date. Regardless, I went for the obvious fix and attempted to clear any updates with the hold the sync button until dash. So, of course I held the sync button and powered it up, but this time after a long wait (30 seconds or so) it just went into RROD mode. I popped the secondary code and got 0022. So, my brain goes into repair mode without much thought. I go ahead and strip it down, clean it, run flux, reflow, repaste, etc... Still, I have 0022, which isn't usually an issue. So, after rechecking, reflowing, and re pasting again...i get a little irked...

Then for no apparent reason I google "E71 changing to 0022" and apparently this is not a coincidence. Seems to have happened to more than one person. I read lots of incidents, but not any true solutions. Help? Suggestions?

BTW, Xenon, ms25, stock, no work done or wiring on the board, no missing parts, nothing other than a pure stock 360.

All the errors were before I even cracked the case open. So, my reflow had nothing to do with causing the error. I had an E71 change to a 0022 just by holding the sync button to clear an failed updates.

All this was done on the first time through the repair. Stripped it down, cleaned it up, it sat in the oven at 170F for 6 hours. Ran flux under all the chips. Reflowed the board paying special attention to the southbridge, GPU, RAM areas, paste..so on. I just got done with the second run through, oven, reflow, waiting on it to cool to paste and test again. Not feeling confident on this one. Still no joy after going through everything the second time.

Any wild ideas out there?

A rework station is sort of similar to a heat gun , yet you control the temp and air flow.

yes, it is a heatgun. My heatgun allows adjustment of temps just fine, and nozzles direct how wide or narrow of an area you wish to heat.

You get the 2 red rings because the screws are too tight. Since it shows rrod though along with 2 rings then the xclamp fix isn't working. When the xclamp fix is applied its shows rrod right, and when you tighten then or loosen them it shows 2 rings. The problem is probably somewhere different. It sounds like it may be the Southbridge or the ram. As for repairs its $35 just for the repair, I use professional tools to fix your Xbox (search smd rework station on google), I also add on the xclamp trick hybrid and that is similar to the xclamp trick yet it prevents flexing, does even pressure, fixes many of the 360s problems, and lasts longer. I only make $10-$15 because of the costs of parts. Which is the best deal out there. A jtag is hard work, the cheapest I've heard is $40 just for a jtag, and so if your looking for both for $40 your xbox isn't going to last longer than 2 hours lol.

Actually, save your money... I can almost guarantee you that you can handle this yourself, easily...

What it sounds like from you description of the problem is that you simply used way too much thermal paste on the chips. Honestly, they only need a very light covering (about 2 grains of rice on each chip). The reason you are getting the overheat code is because the chips aren't making a good connection with the heatsinks. try to clean them off really good with alcohol prep pads and redo the paste. The Xclamp works fine and there is no benefit to the more costly "hybrid" clamp. Remember, and seriously... remember.... when putting the screws back in ( screw,metal, nylon, board, nylon, metal, heatsink) only tighten the screws as far as you can with your bare hand... no joke.

And Halo3... jtagging is 95% hardware. The software installation is very basic.

Lemme know if that helps.

And to you HAWKzero, I apologize for the flaming in this thread. It sucks when you come to get help and answers and it just goes nowhere. I do have a problem with this kid spouting off bad info he read somewhere and assumes it is correct. It is very misleading and may cause people to do unnecessary work on their consoles. Basically, here's what to look for...

The first indicator that it may be the power supply was your power brick going back to red. If that happens, it means it's an error with the brick or the power supply on the 360 itself. Since you tried out multiple power bricks, that kinda eliminates the possibility of it being the brick. Then when you got the secondary code and it was 0001, you almost completely confirmed that was the issue. I'm going to go with the fact that when you positioned it in a certain spot you got power enough to get the secondary code, that you have a loose connection.

To begin with, look in the outlet on the console and make sure none of the contacts are missing/bent/touching. If that goes well and everything looks good, start looking around the PSU for loose or bridging solder and any resistors that may have shorted. 99% of the time you will find your problem right there with the solder. If it is, you can attempt a reflow on that area, but please be cautious around the resistors and such there. There is a rare chance that it could be a short in your DVD drive power wire or the fan wires. Check all that out. And test different wires if you have them available.

Hope that helps you.

First of all its a smd rework station on the drill press. Yeah at the beggining of november i had no idea what e73 was, at that time i only worked with rrod and e74 360s which are the most common errors. Also no im right, im talking about the caps not the resistors. Try blowing one and find out XD

Also it really doesn't matter what i say anymore becasue it doesn't matter what's true, just what most people believe.

Actually I have removed caps from a 360 and had it run fine... rework station, hmm, does it produce heat directed at something... like a heatgun. Your problem is you come in, spout bad information you read somewhere and have nothing at all to back it up. I have a track record and lots of successful repairs. You have nothing you can show. You need to understand that reading stuff and paying to much for a "professional" rework station doesn't make you an expert. Doing this successfully for 3+ years on hundreds of consoles, is what makes me think I know just a little bit.

its not an opinion its fact

My answer to every comment he has made regarding his vast experience... http://www.ibotmodz....332#entry109332

BTW, "kid", your 360 will run fine missing a cap or 2... I believe you are thinking or the resistors, not the capacitors. The capacitors are just filters... But then again, as you so kindly said... what do I know.

its the xclamp thats making it like that, its probably too tight, try loosening them becasue it could be shorting something. Tell me if loosening them works, if not then its somehting else.

You sir, are truly an idiot. To start with, if you aren't getting power, and your brick checks out. first place you should look is the power supply connections on the 360. You don't even need to know the secondary code.... BUT WAIT!! He did get the secondary code! 0001... hmm, that would be a faulty PSU... Imagine that. So, maybe he should look at the connections around the power supply.

You have no common sense when it comes to 360s. If you had even the slightest bit of any kind of knowledge on 360 repair you would know that overtightening the heatsinks would cause error 0020... Jesus Christ kid. Stop giving bad/wrong advice!

Az doesn't have the slightest clue on repairing 360s. Heatgunning has a wide heat range, you could be giving it too much heat. Also a heat gun causes major flexing and is the WORST reflow out there. As to the fact that I knew nothing about repairing 360s and randomly appeared, no I have been repairing 360s for a while and decided to online with it. Also, Az I told you I didn't learn about repairs just through xbox-scene, I learned from personal experience and months of research. Also my rework station is expensive yes, but well worth it. You need to spend money to make money and with my set-up I'm getting better results so it's worth it. About the capacitors, if they are blown sometimes you can't even turn on your 360, or it displays the 3 red rings. So what the heck do you mean without them your 360 can run perfectly fine!? With my prices I only make $10-$15, I only charge $35 now, and still that doesn't include shipping. I do this on the side and so I'm not looking to make much. So get your facts straight Az

Umm, on your superior custom station... what's that thing hanging on the drill press? Is that a heatgun? You use a heatgun? I think I posted a link to take care of your experience, you know the one from November where you were gonna look on youtube to try and find a video cause you had no idea what E73 was...yeah...

Yet again, my challenge still stands while you bash me... You have yet to name a persons 360 that you have actually fixed. You just change the subject, contradict yourself, and try to make excuses. Grow up kid.

OK, I can actually answer your question... sort of. To answer it fully, I'll need more info.

1) IF and that's a BIG IF, you haven't destroyed it with the penny trick and overheating it. Then put it back to normal. The penny trick will warp the board.

2) don't ever over heat your 360 or do the towel trick

3) now, pull the secondary code and I'll tell you exactly what you need to focus on the fix it.

Also, contrary to popular belief, the factory X clamps do not cause the board to warp. Actually, the factory X clamps are better than any RROD kit you can use. This, like 95% of all 360 errors is caused by heat.

So, pull the secondary code and I'll tell you everything you need to know.

Also would like to add, and this is not dissing you at all, but rather your "expert" equipment.

I looked at that setup on your web page.

Some suggestions....

Take a bare board, lie it on your hotplate, use white-out to mark the four outer holes on the plate (you can do all 8 if you want) then drill those 4 holes into the hotplate, put screws in (like the ones you use for your RROD clamps, but longer (I use 2")) Secure the screws to the plate with a nice nut on top of each, then measure and place another nut 1" above the plate (making sure it's level) on each screw. Sitting the board over this will help with making sure it receives consistent bottom heat, also works much better at unwarping/unstressing the board than your "professional" setup as the gap in between your hotplate and the board allows for too much variance in air circulation and temp changes. It also requires you use a higher temp to affect the board. Which is unnecessary.

Also, take the heatgun off of that drill press and throw the press somewhere else. Used over a hot plate as I suggested, there is no benefit to the press and you lose a lot of manuverability and control. Plain ole $20 heatgun in your hands will give better results. Also from the pictures, you are sitting way too close to the board.

So... your expert equipment was $120+

My setup, which I can assure because of real life experience and knowledge will provide better results, was $40. ($20 for a heat gun, $15 for the hotplate, $5 on screws, bolts, misc.)

Just some suggestions to make things work better, and not waste so much money (which you already did) and still get the lackluster results that you inevitably will have.

Ok, I didn't want to, but I can't stand the blaring misinformation in this topic. SO I will *attempt* to correct it.

1)Best tools and methods according to??? Just because you pay a lot for equipment, doesn't mean you know how to use it.

2)The older cages are not uneven in any way. That's just ridiculous. break one out and read me off the difference.

3) The penny trick's main issue is not flexing the board. The problem with it is that it is always uneven and done incorrectly. The actual issue it causes is that the uneven pressure tends to pull the solder balls loose under the GPU when the 360 gets warm and they soften. Screw warping the board. Regardless, don't ever do the penny trick, you would be truly ruining your 360.

4) Overheating the 360 is bad. But what is this claim of it damaging the "capacitors" (spelling, not mine. Yours)? Overheating your 360 just forces heat on the chips themselves and even if the console has all ventilation blocked, the only way you could hold heat on the capacitors is to have the 360 completely upside down. This has nothing to do with the actual damage you cause. All damage from this method is completely done to the chips themselves. You are not correcting the issue, only softening up some solder so that you get a connection again. You will permanently screw your console this way and it is never even a semi permanent solution (couple days to a few weeks max) As far as it is concerned "expert" go ahead and reach in and grab one of those nice caps surrounding the CPU and rip it out. Turn the 360 on... see any problems? No, you don't, they aren't necessary for your 360 to run completely normal and forever.

5) Why are you "not willing to make much"? Then why aren't you doing it for free?

6) Hmmm, rather bold statement that you are the be all end all in repair. ie "If I can't fix it (even though less than 2 months ago I had no idea in the world what I was doing and was begging for youtube video tut links ---> see this topic http://www.ibotmodz....__1#entry109362 ) then no one can". Without any experience, you have the most experience and know it all. Awesome.

7) I have to ask, honestly.. maybe I'm dumb as hell, I dunno. What the hell does spray painting the outside of the case have ANYTHING to do with controlling heat from the chips to the heatsinks to the fan shroud and out the back of the 360??? This has to be the dumbest thing ever.


Here you go, end all, know all expert... Why not give the people some actual info that's truthful and useful...

To help a lot with overheating make sure to lay your 360 horizontally instead of standing it up. Sony and Nintendo did it and so MS thought they needed to also. Sadly they didn't bother to design it that way. When your 360 is laying down, heat rises up and the fans pull it out the back. When it is standing vertically heat rises, and the fans are on bottom... GASP! So the heat builds up more in the top of your console and well, there isn't much ventilation there. So lay your consoles down.

There kid, you can have that one for free. You know my AIM when you need help getting those 360s fixed.

well yeah im legit lol XD and yeah thx

I would advise anyone be careful dealing with this. Personally I do not know the guy, but after a brief conversation on AIM, where he attempted to flaunt his repair skills because he paid WAY too much for a reflow station, and read some forums on 360 repair.Even though I have only been doing this for years, he attempted to convince me of his awesomeness. Lots of stuff spouting from his mouth was untrue or irrelevant and came straight from bad forum topics on other sites. I asked for any references of customers he had done repairs for and he could not provide any, just consistently tried to throw out irrelevant knowledge (ie. "Do you replace the capacitors?") (ie... from me.... Are you aware that you would never need to? Are you aware that the 360 would run perfectly fine without them ????")lol. And on and on.Had a lot of talk, but most was recycled from other people on other forums. And I'm wary of people who's "experiAnce" (sorry, I had to) is strictly reading forums on xbox-scene and getting ripped off on a reflow station. And that's the only references he could provide. No real life experience. None was mentioned.

Then I jump on here to check him out. In November, he knew nothing about 360 repair. So in 2 months he has bought an expensive reflow station and found some forums. and is now a "professional".

Not dissing him (lol) as I refuse to sink to his sophomoric level, but please be wary. People like this are a dime a dozen.

Find actual people that have had repair work done by him, and how their consoles are working. Ask questions and shop around. Demand unrelated references.

I can honestly say the biggest problem with this topic is his price. The hybrid clamps themselves (besides having no value to a true repair person... BUT they were talked up by a few misinformed forums), are $10-$15 each, so if he is truly doing what he says, his material costs would exceed his charge. Either you are gonna pay Shipping and still have a broken 360, or something isn't right. Think about it.

Just some advice.

I can vouch for these consoles as I physically had my hands on both. The jtag had a sloppy repair job done the first time so I cleaned it up and did a lil E74 repair, and the other I walked him through the repair online.

thanks but anyways any chance i can also get a link with how to do it without the over hey also whats the differance between this and the baker baker method???
Also i found this E73: General Hardware Error: Ethernet port... this error is caused by a problem with the Ethernet port so do u think replacing the ethernet port would solve the problem?

Actually professional repair guy. Anyone who has ever fixed any number of 360s would know that even though on forum sites, it lists E73 as an Ethernet port error, 99% of the time it is actually the Southbridge chip causing the error. A simple homemade heatsink/tensioner on the Southbridge chip after a nice flux run and solder check, tightening slightly more on the GPU facing side will eliminate this issue. I believe maybe if you are going to repair 360s for money the time comes when you should stop reading forums and learn what's really going on... before you start charging people to fix imaginary problems. Today you were giving me a speech on AIM about your impressive repair skills, and 2 months ago you had no clue what was going on. I've only been doing this since before everyone on Ebay thought they could buy an e-book and fix things themselves. Way to show me up son.

Just a suggestion. Not like I know anything at all about 360s.