RROD 360 power brick turns red

[HAWKzer0]

Hello everyone I have a broken rrod 360, I attempted the X-clamp but once I got to the step where I have to overheat the console it would turn on flashing rrod again which is normal but only problem was that power brick would still be orange, while the the heat-sinks would not get hot whatsoever. I decided to turn it off and turn it back on and this time it wouldn't even show rrod, it just blinked green once and the power brick automatically turns red. Before you guys say try a different wall outlet I have, and I have also tried all 3 of my power bricks on this console! I really want to get this fixed since it is a pre NXE console any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance to anyone who stops by to help.

[halo3]

Hello everyone I have a broken rrod 360, I attempted the X-clamp but once I got to the step where I have to overheat the console it would turn on flashing rrod again which is normal but only problem was that power brick would still be orange, while the the heat-sinks would not get hot whatsoever. I decided to turn it off and turn it back on and this time it wouldn't even show rrod, it just blinked green once and the power brick automatically turns red. Before you guys say try a different wall outlet I have, and I have also tried all 3 of my power bricks on this console! I really want to get this fixed since it is a pre NXE console any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance to anyone who stops by to help.

its the xclamp thats making it like that, its probably too tight, try loosening them becasue it could be shorting something. Tell me if loosening them works, if not then its somehting else.

[HAWKzer0]

Ok so I completely removed the screws, from the gpu/cpu and detached them from the motherboard and yet the same thing happens. I started messing around with the position of the motherboard while on top of the metal cage. When I positioned it on a spot it liked, it rroded again. This gave me a chance to check out the secondary error code #0001 also known as E01 I think. I moved it a bit and it took me back to the beginning where the power brick just turns red and doesn't power it on. Afterwards I decided to to just put the gpu/cpu back in and screw it back together. it wouldn't power on until I positioned it on a spot it was happy with. So gpu/cpu or no gpu/cpu it doesn't matter it will not rrod until it is in a spot it likes. Just so you know it is not really rroding because if it was the cpu/gpu would get hot and the fan would work, it doesn't turn on while it is rroding, but when the brick turns red and doesn't turn on the console it turns the fan on for a sec and then shut everything down. Ok so like I said before secondary error code is #0001 and when it is in rrod the power block turns red for a sec then turns orange while it still rrod`s. One last thing it will not rrod inside the cage no matter what I try it has to be on top of the cage while the cage is flipped upside down, it also doesn't work on any other surface other than the cage in that position.

[iBotPeaches]

A spot it likes?

 

I only have experience with 1 xbox 360 repair, so using a mixed knowledge of normal xbox repair I would say. Double check the length of the connections on the bottom of the board, some may be touching the metal cage, either grounding it or spreading it among the cage, thus shorting it out.

[halo3]

what yeat is the 360? If its before 07 the standoffs are differant hights making the board uneven.

[Decatur]

if your 360 is open and you're trying to see why it RRoD's after you x-clamped it, it's because you didn't put the fan shroud back on so the heat just sits there.

[halo3]

if your 360 is open and you're trying to see why it RRoD's after you x-clamped it, it's because you didn't put the fan shroud back on so the heat just sits there.

No, the xbox can run for a couple minutes with the heatsinks on and no fan without overheating. The rrod is a problem with the solderballs under a chip, they lost connection. The reason why the xclamp works is by pushing those solderballs back, reconnecting them yet the xclamp bends the board so it will break again, it just depends how long you play it. Like lets you you play it for hours on end a day that causes more flxing (bending) then a day you play it for 1-2 hours. So it will eventually break, just the more and longer you play it the faster it will break.

Edited February 1, 2010 by halo3

[HAWKzer0]

Ok I just checked the bottom of the board and it seems like nothing is touching the cage. I also found out that when I position it on the right spot it usually has the power connection side of the board lifted a bit thus allowing it to fake rrod. If you have any specific spot I should look out for let me know. I also found out that #0001 or E01 could be a blown transistor, or cold joint with the HANA chip, I could be wrong. Anyways the manufacture date is 2006-06-06.

[Decatur]

No, the xbox can run for a couple minutes with the heatsinks on and no fan without overheating. The rrod is a problem with the solderballs under a chip, they lost connection. The reason why the xclamp works is by pushing those solderballs back, reconnecting them yet the xclamp bends the board so it will break again, it just depends how long you play it. Like lets you you play it for hours on end a day that causes more flxing (bending) then a day you play it for 1-2 hours. So it will eventually break, just the more and longer you play it the faster it will break.

 

Dude, you are talking out your ass, shut the **** up. If you have been turning it on and off it's going to over heat quicker and quicker each time. It doesn't last several minutes, it will last 30 seconds at most. Trust me, the CPU can't operate over temperatures of, let's say temperatures of about 40 degrees Celsius. Once it reaches that temperature, it has a failsafe. To shut off completely and red ring. It's not always a ******* solderball, you ignorant little shit. You sir, are a ******* idiot.

[halo3]

Dude, you are talking out your ass, shut the **** up. If you have been turning it on and off it's going to over heat quicker and quicker each time. It doesn't last several minutes, it will last 30 seconds at most. Trust me, the CPU can't operate over temperatures of, let's say temperatures of about 40 degrees Celsius. Once it reaches that temperature, it has a failsafe. To shut off completely and red ring. It's not always a ******* solderball, you ignorant little shit. You sir, are a ******* idiot.

You are the biggest retard ever, what do you even know about repairing 360s? It can last a few minutes with out the fan, but not long, just as long as you have the heatsinks on. Also it depends on a lot of things, like the room temp for example. Also rrod is the solderballs, 2 rings is overheating. The reason why it works when you have it in a certain spot is the pressure on the chips. So find some other place besides youtube to get your info

[Decatur]

You are the biggest retard ever, what do you even know about repairing 360s? It can last a few minutes with out the fan, but not long, just as long as you have the heatsinks on. Also it depends on a lot of things, like the room temp for example. Also rrod is the solderballs, 2 rings is overheating. The reason why it works when you have it in a certain spot is the pressure on the chips. So find some other place besides youtube to get your info

 

Dude. You realllyyyy are ignorant. I'm not even going to go into this with you. 360's heatsinks are shit without fanshroud, lasts 30 seconds tops. I know from 360 repairs and JTAG. Room temperature? Are you serious? You are ******* retarded. Overheating => hardware failure => 3 red rings. After 30 seconds. RROD is not solderballs you ********, it's general hardware failure. You are ignorant if you think it's only solderballs. The red rings from no shroud/ fan is caused by the CPU stopping. You'd be lucky if you don't fry the CPU in general. Which means hardware failure. No surprise why people hate you.

[iBotPeaches]

I'm cutting in to say, you guys should flame in a PM. Your taking this guys call for help and turning it into a flame war.

[halo3]

Dude. You realllyyyy are ignorant. I'm not even going to go into this with you. 360's heatsinks are shit without fanshroud, lasts 30 seconds tops. I know from 360 repairs and JTAG. Room temperature? Are you serious? You are ******* retarded. Overheating => hardware failure => 3 red rings. After 30 seconds. RROD is not solderballs you ********, it's general hardware failure. You are ignorant if you think it's only solderballs. The red rings from no shroud/ fan is caused by the CPU stopping. You'd be lucky if you don't fry the CPU in general. Which means hardware failure. No surprise why people hate you.

repairs, what youtube fixes ? I've tried this, it can last a little bit without the fan, obviously not for long, but it doesn't go to overheating after 30 secs with the heatsinks, don't believe me go try it

[Decatur]

repairs, what youtube fixes ? I've tried this, it can last a little bit without the fan, obviously not for long, but it doesn't go to overheating after 30 secs with the heatsinks, don't believe me go try it

 

it happened to me before, lasted 30 seconds. then 5. then 3. then didn't turn on.

[halo3]

it happened to me before, lasted 30 seconds. then 5. then 3. then didn't turn on.

well thats one 360, and then obviously there was anouther problem there. After a ton of repairs one thing I've learned is every 360 is a little bit differant.

Edited February 2, 2010 by halo3

[HAWKzer0]

Wow my first post gets turned into a flaming page. Anyways both of you seriously need to redo your math, some things you both say are true. All 360`s react differently my past one turn`s on completely without the fans and only the heat-sinks mounted and it heats up for 30 minutes then the safeguard shuts it down. By the way the air-vent is pretty much useless unless the console is covered, now a 360 without the heat-sinks doesn't power on the gpu/cpu therefore it doesn't overheat them it just doesn't turn them on. Im too tired to explain some more I just got home and checked this out and thought I try to break this up. Whatever some people just aren`t mature enough to handle an open thred. Anyways I guess people just aren`t going to help out, If a MOD gets the chance please lock this topic it wont go anywhere.

[Azraelrs]

its the xclamp thats making it like that, its probably too tight, try loosening them becasue it could be shorting something. Tell me if loosening them works, if not then its somehting else.

 

 

You sir, are truly an idiot. To start with, if you aren't getting power, and your brick checks out. first place you should look is the power supply connections on the 360. You don't even need to know the secondary code.... BUT WAIT!! He did get the secondary code! 0001... hmm, that would be a faulty PSU... Imagine that. So, maybe he should look at the connections around the power supply.

 

You have no common sense when it comes to 360s. If you had even the slightest bit of any kind of knowledge on 360 repair you would know that overtightening the heatsinks would cause error 0020... Jesus Christ kid. Stop giving bad/wrong advice!

[Quinn]

let's say temperatures of about 40 degrees Celsius. Once it reaches that temperature, it has a failsafe. To shut off completely and red ring. It's not always a ******* solderball, you ignorant little shit. You sir, are a ******* idiot.

 

 

It hits the failsafe that low? For a quick example, my Phenom II reaches its failsafe at ~62 degrees Celsius

well thats one 360, and then obviously there was anouther problem there. After a ton of repairs one thing I've learned is every 360 is a little bit differant.

 

A ton of repairs? A couple weeks ago you were saying you had only done a few?

You sir, are truly an idiot. To start with, if you aren't getting power, and your brick checks out. first place you should look is the power supply connections on the 360. You don't even need to know the secondary code.... BUT WAIT!! He did get the secondary code! 0001... hmm, that would be a faulty PSU... Imagine that. So, maybe he should look at the connections around the power supply.

 

You have no common sense when it comes to 360s. If you had even the slightest bit of any kind of knowledge on 360 repair you would know that overtightening the heatsinks would cause error 0020... Jesus Christ kid. Stop giving bad/wrong advice!

 

pwned

[Azraelrs]

And to you HAWKzero, I apologize for the flaming in this thread. It sucks when you come to get help and answers and it just goes nowhere. I do have a problem with this kid spouting off bad info he read somewhere and assumes it is correct. It is very misleading and may cause people to do unnecessary work on their consoles. Basically, here's what to look for...

 

The first indicator that it may be the power supply was your power brick going back to red. If that happens, it means it's an error with the brick or the power supply on the 360 itself. Since you tried out multiple power bricks, that kinda eliminates the possibility of it being the brick. Then when you got the secondary code and it was 0001, you almost completely confirmed that was the issue. I'm going to go with the fact that when you positioned it in a certain spot you got power enough to get the secondary code, that you have a loose connection.

 

To begin with, look in the outlet on the console and make sure none of the contacts are missing/bent/touching. If that goes well and everything looks good, start looking around the PSU for loose or bridging solder and any resistors that may have shorted. 99% of the time you will find your problem right there with the solder. If it is, you can attempt a reflow on that area, but please be cautious around the resistors and such there. There is a rare chance that it could be a short in your DVD drive power wire or the fan wires. Check all that out. And test different wires if you have them available.

 

Hope that helps you.

Edited February 3, 2010 by Azraelrs