cbpwnrs2

If You can edit this post and put that in But good post

If you can post pics and info

Nice Post But Put In Pics And Info But Till Then I = No DL

I'm so stupid I drank alchohol and get expelled! Im a retard LOL!

Damn ***** You Just Told That b**** DAMN!

No Like Moddude Said The Links Are Going Bad Because Of Something With Bungie But It Will Just Say File Could Not Be Found For All Even When I Copy And Paste It

Why do all liks for mods dissapear

Thanks For This

NO WAY THANKS FOR POSTING THIS I SO DIDN'T KNOW THIS WAS POSSIBLE LULZ!!!!!!!!!!! Sorry

K Ill Fix That

WTF?

Also I Would To Like Them Any Of Them Will Be Fine Just Also Send Them To Me I'm Not saying send them all to me but just send some to both of us thanks and also all i need is 1 for the million dollars so ya just saying I Hope I Win Lol! But Yeah Just Send Us Both Some If U Can

A host check map and game type is set out. This lets you start the game and by random spawns and kills... whenever the game starts... nobody will spawn everyone with go to black screen and the person who has one kill is the host.. everyone else should have no kills. perfect for GB and tournaments to check and make sure who ever's host is supposed to be host. you can download the game and game type on my file share. just send me a message or request GT/ xTheLebA

http://files.filefront.com/Flying+Warthog+...;/fileinfo.html Ok For Info I Know That This Works Because I Did It And What It Does Is It Can Make It So That Your Warthog Can Fly On Any Map That You Can Get A Warthog On To! And It Is A Very Useful Download! Post Edited By Me

if you want to hack a website go to a website then change the url to java script: document.body.contentEditable = 'true'; document.designMode = 'on'; void 0

Am I Allowed To Post This Or Not Just Asking cuz if some 1 does it to dis site ill be held responsible! Can I?

Oh Its All Good

Flames from tires instead of dirt Step 1: Open up your map in Dot Halo Step 2: In the Tags window, scroll down and click on the [effe]effects tag Step 3: Click on "effects\contact\grinding\vehicle_default" and in the dependencies window change everything to the following: prt3-effects\generic\fires\fire pmov-effects\particle_physics\fire Step 4: Now do the same thing to the next 7 tags under "effects\contact\grinding\vehicle_default". Change all the prt3 dependecies to effects\generic\fires\fire, and all the pmov dependencies to effects\particle_physics\fire. Step 5: Click save changes and resign

No But It does look like i copy and paste and steal other peoplles posts but no i have had all these tuts on my desktop from notepad for a while because i have wanted to do this so i will write things in the notepad and when i do it i will have an easier way accsessing these tuts but i have hand written all of these tuts but i have copyed and pasted from my own source I would never steal other posts like that

Thanks!

*TUT: Add Music to Warthog Driver Seat* Supplies: Mainmenu.map Dothalo A map resigner Halo Sound Tools Sony Sound Forge 8 Step 1: Open your music file in Sound Forge. We will be swapping your sound in for the main menu music which is in 4 parts. You will have to split your sound into 4 parts that are the same length as the main menu parts. Part 1: 56 seconds Part 2: 35 seconds Part 3: 1 min 15 sec Part 4: 2min 29 sec Step 2: Save all four parts as Windows Media Audio V9 type files. Save them somewhere you will remember, and in order from beginning to end. Step 3: Open your map in Halo Sound Tools and scroll down to sound\ui\main_menu_music\menu_music\loop and click internalize. Once thatâs finishes click inject, and inject your files in order. Once you finish that close the map. Step 4: Open your map in Dothalo, and scroll down to the sound tab snd!(thankyou to nitemare14 for pointing out my mistake) Highlight sound\vehicles\warthog\new_warthog_left\new_wartho g_left (or right) and change sound\vehicles\warthog\new_warthog_left\track1\loo p to sound\ui\main_menu_music\menu_music\loop. Click save changes and close out of that. Step 5: Open up your resigner, open your map and resign it. Step 6: Move your map back to your box however you want, and when you hop in the hog it should play your music

Discussion for Merging Immovable Objects with Map Geometry This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x576. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x576 and weights 82KB. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x576. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x576 and weights 74KB. This time round we've got another more advanced forging technique that follows on from the interlocking objects forging 101. We'll start off by explaining how to push a double box into the ground - once that's explained it's a similar process to force any immovable objects into a wall or any other map geometry. As an example, the double box in the first screenshot was forced into the ground to leave it 3 walls high above the floor. To do this, lay 3 walls flat on top of each other and then place the double box on top. Delete the walls so you have a floating double box. Now set the floating box to 'Place on Start: No' and assign it a long respawn time to give yourself time to complete the next steps. Start a new round and the double box will not yet have spawned - however, it's small blue dot representing it's spawn location will still be visible. Looking directly down at the floor above the spawn location, place another double box and lower it onto the ground. Don't ever let go of this double box you are placing, or it will disappear in later steps. Press X twice to bring up the object menu and set the 'Run Time Minimum' for the double box to the 'Run Time Maximum'. This will cause the floating double box you placed earlier to instantly respawn and force the double box you are holding into the ground. Whilst still holding the double box, press start to bring up the menu, save, and then quit. Restart forge and the double box will be merged with the ground. Now all that is left is to delete the 'pushing' double box resting atop it, et viola! How far do you want the object in the ground/wall? It depends how high you float your 'pushing' object off the ground. The space between the ground and the 'pushing' object is how much of the 'pushed' object will be left visible above ground. The same process applies for pushing objects into walls, except you have to go through the procedure at 90̡̉ to the floor. The object comes out sideways or not straight, how do I make it straight? Simple, use double boxes to keep it straight. Put some on all sides so it will go into the ground/wall perfectly straight. The objects keep dissapearing when I let go! Dont let go of it, instead press start, save your map and quit, when you load up your map again the object will be in the ground/wall. Alternate Method: Using the Door Faster, easier and more precise Place the object you want to merge and secure it with other immovable objects like in the other method. Spawn a door and place it upside-down on top of the box. You'll see it sink into the box about a third of the way. Once it has settled, grab the box and let go right away. The door will now push the box down into the floor. If you want the box deeper in the floor, grab the door again and let it go and it'll sink back into the box. This method is much faster and easier than the save and quit method. You can also use the sides of the doors to make smaller adjustments. Use multiple doors at the same time to push objects evenly.

First you will need a Halo 3 modding program in this tutorial I will be using Forge 2.3 found here http://forums.halomods.com/viewtopic.php?t=78473 In this tutorial we will be editing a Fusion Coil into an invisible barrier. Follow these steps to find out how. You should have your usermap ready to mod open up with Forge 2.3 If you don't know how to get usermaps off of your HDD then read a tutorial how here. http://forums.halomods.com/viewtopic.php?t=78492 Note: I use Halomods as a refrence I hate that place. Sorry =( Go to File->Open Open up the usermap you would like to edit. With the fusion coil already placed where you want a invisible wall to be. EDIT: If you would like the Barrier to go horrizontal put it on its side and if you want to turn it do so that will make the barrier @ an angle. Ex. Lets say I wanted to block off this area II Would put a Fusion coil in this spot as shown, after it will be a Invisible wall. Go to -+ Bloc | | | |objects\gear\human\military\fusion_ciol\_fusion_co il ^^ Thats what we will be editing go to the item properties screen to the right. the drop down on the right (The one with objects\gear\human\military\fusion_ciol\_fusion_co il in it) and go to objects\multi\wall_l\wall_l then hit save. Resign the map. Transfer it to the drive and it should end up like this. Hehe Don't Forget your manners if this helped. =) xD

Tools necessary: Solder Iron Dremel (preferably) Torx T8 security screwdriver. NOTE: I couldnât get find a security screwdriver locally, so I just used a small flathead screwdriver to break the center posts of the screws. I was then able to use my regular T8 screwdriver to take out the screws. Parts necessary.....Radio Shack identification number TLC555 Timer.....276-1718 10K ohm resistor..... 1.8K ohm resistor.....I used a 2.2k ohm resistor instead Radio shack doesn't sell any of 1.8k resistors 220 ohm resistor..... 100K ohm potentiometer.....271-284 1uF tantalum capacitor.....272-1434 100pF capacitor.....272-135 Push button switch.....275-0646 NPN switching transistor.....276-1617 Breadboard.....276-159 Wire (personally, I used wire from a scrapped USB cable) if you don't wanna use scrap usb than use 30 awg (gauge) wire **I couldn't find these specific transistors at my local Radio Shack, I used the "general purpose" PNP transistors they they had in stock. They still worked, but I'm not sure if the ones listed above will work better. Getting Started NOTE: The breadboard will come in a pack of two, connected. First, I suggest separating them. I used my Dremel. Iâm not sure if that is what âproâsâ suggest, but it worked for me. NOTE: For ease of understanding I will use an alphanumeric labeling system when referring to holes on the breadboard. Ignore the holes on the perimeter of the breadboard. Ignoring them, you should see two rows on the breadboard. Each row is three holes by ten holes. Lay the breadboard on your work surface with the trace side facing down and the rows going vertical, so you see one row on the left and one row on the right. Take a writing utensil and mark the top left dot. That dot will be A1. The dot to the right of that will be B1, to the right of that, C1, and so on. Each column will be a letter and each row will be a number, so the bottom right dot will be F10. 1. Solder the TLC555 timer into the breadboard with pin 1 of the chip in hole C4. Make sure that when you solder the timer onto the board you are soldering it with the chip, as well as all other components/wires, on the side of the board that doesnât have the traces. It should be common sense, but I like to make sure I cover the simple mistakes, as those are the ones that really get people most the time. 2. Solder a wire connecting pins B4 and B3. I used a black wire, for ground. 3. Solder a wire connecting C3 and D3. Again, I used a black wire for ground. 4. Solder a wire connecting B5 and E6. I used an white wire in the picture. 5. Solder a wire connecting B7 and E4. I used a red wire, for power. [imghttp://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/phlsphr/HPIM0749.jpg[/img] 6. Solder a four inch long wire to E5. I used another white wire in the picture. I also have the NPN transistor on the board in the picture. You can leave that off for now, that was just a mistake I made while taking pictures. The transistor will get put on in the next step and I also put it in backwards 7. Solder the NPN transistor into F1, F2 and F3. NOTE: The transistor has to go in a certain way. If you look at the back of the package that it came in you should see a diagram showing which pins are the base, emitter and collector. The collector should be soldered into F1, the base into F2 and the emitter into F3. If you threw away the case, then hopefully you got the one listed in the âparts requiredâ list above. If so, then the âroundâ side of the transistor should be facing the away from the center of the board, as shown in the picture.Actually, sorry...my bad it should be facing towards the center of the board 8. Solder another four inch long wire to F6. I used a white wire in the picture. 9. Solder the 100pF capacitor into E3 and E7. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 912x688 and weights 123KB. continued... 10. Solder the 220 ohm resistor into C2 and D2. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 944x704 and weights 113KB. 11. Solder the 1.8K ohm resistor(or your 2.2k resistor) into C1 and D1. 12. Solder the 10K ohm resistor into F4 and F5. 13. Look at your 1uF capacitor. It should have a very small âplusâ sign on it. That is the positive side. Solder the 1uF capacitor into A4 and A5, the positive side going into A5 and the negative side into a4. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 720x544 and weights 94KB. 14. Solder a four inch long wire to B2. I used a green, for trigger. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 880x656 and weights 189KB. 15. Solder a four inch long wire to B1. Again, I used green, for trigger. 16. Solder a four inch long wire to A3. I used black, for ground. 17. Solder a four inch long wire to B6. I used green, for trigger. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 944x704 and weights 59KB. 18. Solder a seven inch long wire to A7. I used red, for power. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x771 and weights 117KB. 19. Flip the circuit board over and use a sharpie to draw a square around the holes of the board that you used. This will be your guide for when you are cutting the board down to size to fit inside the controller. 20. Your finished right trigger circuit board should look like this⦠This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 640x480 and weights 172KB. Installing the pushbuttons and the potentiometer 1. Take the controller apart and be careful not to ruin anything inside of the controller. Be gentle here with it. 2. Remove the ârumblerâ from the controllerâs circuit board on the right side. 3. Using a Dremel (preferably) cut all supports for the rumbler out of the casing. This should provide more than enough room for your nearly finished mod. Here are the front and back, post-cut...Just cut the right side of the controller and keep your left rumbler in place...only remove the right side rumbler This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 976x736 and weights 235KB. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x772 and weights 221KB. ^notice that I'd already cut one of the holes for the right trigger's pushbutton. That is the next step... 4. You should see two circles on the inside of the back of the controller casing. I used those as guides for where to put my pushbuttons. They arenât perfect, but theyâre damn closed. Using a Dremel, drill holes into the back of the controllerâs casing to allow you to install the pushbuttons. If you want a nice looking end result, I suggest you go slow and steady, comparing your progress with the pushbuttons often to ensure you donât overcut. If you are only doing the right trigger portion of this mod then only drill the hole in the right side of the controller. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1008x752 and weights 211KB. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 768x576 and weights 144KB. 5. Using a Dremel, cut another hole just below the hole you drilled for the right triggerâs rapid fire button. This hole will be for the potentiometer, so you donât have to open the controller every time you want to adjust it. Again, go slow and compare often to ensure you have a good looking end result. The picture for this step is above, with the picture of the hole for the right trigger button. 6. Put the pushbuttons into the holes, installing them from the outside and using the captive lock-washers to keep them tight and in place. 7. The potentiometer should have three legs, two on one side and one on the other. Clip one of the legs on the side that has two. 8. Some more experienced may disagree with my following method, but it worked for me, mostly because I was extremely careful. If someone has a better method, I am very willing to learn it. To install the potentiometer, I put superglue around the hole that Iâd drilled for it. I then gently held the potentiometer on the hole with the adjustable side facing the exterior of the shell of the controller and the pin side facing in, ensuring that I got no superglue onto the white portion (adjustable part) of the potentiometer. I continued to hold it until it dried. You can also use hot glue if you careful on where you glue it. Just don't get it on the adjustable part of the trimmer. Installing the right trigger circuit board NOTE: Trim each wire as necessary, to ensure you donât end up with a âspaghetti messâ of wires in your controller, before soldering.[/color] 1. Solder the wire from B2 of the circuit board to one of the leads of the pushbutton for your right trigger 2. Solder the wire from A6 of the circuit board to the other lead of the right pushbutton. 3. Solder the wire from E5 of the circuit board to one of the leads of the potentiometer/trimmer 4. Solder the wire from F6 of the circuit board to the remaining lead of the potentiometer/trimmer. You should now have two wires soldered to the potentiometer, one on each side of it, not two wires on both sides. Remember, I instructed you to cut one of the two leads that are on one side of the potentiometer in Step 7 of Installing the pushbuttons and potentiometer. Your project should now look something like this: This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x779 and weights 232KB. 5. Solder the wire from A7 to the Power point of the controllerâs circuit board. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x773 and weights 75KB. 6. Solder the wire from B3 to the Ground point of the right trigger of the controllerâs circuit board. In my picture it is the point with the black wire soldered to it on the right hand side of the controller. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1024x773 and weights 76KB. 7. Solder the wire from B1 to the Trigger point of the right trigger of the controllerâs circuit board. In the picture in step 6 above, it is the point with the green wire soldered to it on the right side of the controllerâs circuit board, just below the black one mentioned in step 5. Reassemble the controller carefully, making sure to avoid pinching any of your wires And there you have it. You should now have a fully-functional rapid fire controller. Simply adjust the potentiometer as necessary for the setting you feel comfortable with.